digital drifting settings

wheels

Aaaarrrrrrggggghhhhh! Everything is installed but NONE OF IT WORKS!!!!!

That’s okay, we can help you with that!

logitech g-series wheels

So your budget was limited or there weren’t many choices? That’s okay! It can all be made to work. In this page we’re going to run through our recommended drift settings for the Logitech G25, G27, G29, G920, and G923.

The very first thing you need to do, if you’re using the G29, G920, or G930 is install the Logitech Gaming Software driver and control package. If you are using the G25 or G27 then get the Logitech Profiler.

DO NOT INSTALL G-HUB!!!!

Your newer wheels from Logitech are supposed to run using G-Hub BUT Logitech changed the way the damping on the G-series wheels feels using G-Hub and it DOES NOT WORK FOR DRIFTING! By following our instructions, the latest feature of the G930 (it’s vibrating wheel) will not work, however this is a small price to pay for the extra performance when drifting. The G29 and G920 are designed to use the Logitech Gaming Software drivers anyway, and this is the best setup for them. The older wheels (G25 and G27) have a more adjustable driver package using Profiler.

Note: There are occasionally reports of the Logitech Gaming Software NOT working with more recent wheels. Sadly, in this instance, you will have to install G-Hub. This is a worst-case scenario, however, and if it can be avoided then it should be. If you find that, no matter what, your G29/920/930 absolutely refuses to generate force feedback then, sadly, it can mean that it needs G-Hub. We can’t tell you in advance who this will affect as it seems to be only small minorities, but there is the possibility that it might happen to you.

Now it’s time to make the G-Series wheel perform suitably for the style of driving that Assetto Corsa can really deliver. This is going to be done in a number of ways and, honestly, missing out even one of these will result in you having a truly sub-par experience. That’s not to say that the G-Series wheels will give you the absolute reality of drifting a “proper” car even if you do follow them, but it will at least mean that the wheel can, with some driver skill, keep up with even the most demanding of high end mods such as our own car pack or the Virtual Drift Championship cars.

Before we get into the actual settings for the wheel in the Logitech Gaming Software we’re going to start by giving it half a chance of performing to it’s best. To do that we’re going to need to generate a .LUT file. This is being done for YOUR SPECIFIC WHEEL, not for G-Series wheels in general. If you change your wheel from, say, a G25 to a G29 as a small upgrade then you will need to do this step again. In fact; if you replace your G29 with another G29 then you’ll also need to do it again! It’s important to understand that this tool is to even out the imperfections in the gear cogging and motor cycle for each individual wheel, not as a general fix-all.

The first step is to use an app called Wheelchecker. This is a piece of software that will put your wheel through a pre-defined set of movements, each with increasing violence; from totally imperceptible through to “holy crap, it’s about to remove itself from my desk!”. The idea is that the software is inputting a certain amount of energy to the motor of your wheel and then measuring exactly how much of a movement in the wheel itself that input generates.

When you open Wheelchecker then the first action is to set the “Max Count”. The higher this number is (within reason) then the better your eventual .LUT will be. Other guides for this recommend 50 as the minimum to put into this box (and that’s what’s shown in the image attached) but we recommend 100 as your minimum, but we have gone as high as 200 and seen a noticeable improvement. Effectively all that happens here is that the length of the test will increase depending on the number you set.

Next; ensure that your wheel is plugged in and has gone through it’s calibration cycle on initial start-up (the aggressive rotation from one extreme to the other that the wheel does when it has both power and a USB connection). Then, using the “Spring Force” drop down bar that currently says “Disabled”; select “Step Log 2 (Linear Force Test)”. The moment that is showing in the drop down bar next to “Spring Force” the test has started!

IMPORTANT: Initially it will seem as though nothing has happened. It is essential, at this stage, that you DO NOT TOUCH THE WHEEL!

The Wheelchecker has started it’s cycle but the first 30 seconds to 1 minute of movement will be totally imperceptible to you. If, after 1 minute, the wheel has not moved at all (assuming you haven’t set more than 200 as your “Max Count”) then it is time to close Wheelchecker and begin the process again. It should be making obvious and noticeable movements within 30 seconds to 1 minute and, once they start, you just have to wait until they stop. Once the wheel has stopped moving then the test is complete and you can shut the Wheelchecker App.

So; now you’ve got a .csv filelocated in your “Documents” folder. To make this into something useful you’re going to need to use the .LUT Generator. This will open a simple app that says “Open .csv and save .lut”. Click that, find the .csv file you recently generated in your “Documents” folder and select it. The LUT Generator will then ask you to specify a filename and location for the new .lut. It’s important to make a note of these as you WILL need it later in the process. We recommend saving it as something like “logitech.lut” in My Documents/Assetto Corsa/cfg. It’s the default location AC uses for this type of file and will already contain a .lut called “crazy1.lut”.

That’s everything we need to do in the background in preparation for setting up the actual wheel properties and Assetto Corsa settings. We’ve recommended doing it in this order so that you’ve got all the fiddly things done in the background ready to go first, then working through to finish with Content Manager so that you can just go straight into the game once this whole process is finished!

Now, if you’re on a G25 or G27, it’s time to open the Logitech Profiler. You can skip this step if you’re using the G29/920/930 as the Logitech Gaming Software doesn’t have the same level of adjustability, however the base level of performance is still good enough. The newer wheel users can go straight down to the Content Manager settings below.

If this is the first time you’ve opened the software, as suggested by the way we’ve structured this guide, then everything in your Global Device Settings should look something like the “default” image below. This is good. We aren’t going to touch the “Overall Effects Strength” slider as we want that on 100%. NOTE: If it isn’t on 100% at this point you will need to SET IT to 100% and then RE-RUN WHEELCHECK AND CREATE A NEW .LUT!

All we want to adjust are the “Spring Effect Strength” & “Damper Effect Strength” slides both to 0 and tick the “Allow Game To Adjust Settings”. That’s it here, click “OK” and close the Logitech Profiler!

Lastly we’re going to set everything up in Content Manager. This can be done in Assetto Corsa itself if you’re absolutely determined to do so but, as we’ve said elsewhere, Content Manager will make everything far easier.

In CM head to the “Settings” tab in the top right, then select the “Assetto Corsa” menu header on the left hand side of the screen. From there click on “Controls”. The default screen for the “Controls” tab is the “Axis” section and this will all need to be assigned.

To assign a control, click on the box for the part you want to assign. In the image associated we’ve clicked on the “Steering Wheel” box, as can be seen from the red surround on the box and the text “Waiting For Input”. To assign the relevant control just move the item you want it to be! In this instance it would just mean a small movement of the steering wheel.
Repeat that process with each of the pedals individually and then, as can also be seen in the associated image, ensure that each pedal has the “Invert” tab ticked.

Once each of these has been assigned you should be able to move each item (wheel, clutch, brake, and throttle) and see a corresponding movement on screen. In the case of the pedals this should be from left to right! If they are moving from right to left when you depress the pedals then check again that the “Invert” tab is ticked.

If you have a physical handbrake you intend to use then assign that in the same way as the pedals at this stage. If you don’t then read on below to see how to assign a button as your handbrake.

Next, we move on to the “Buttons” tab on the right hand side of the upper-screen. This will allow us to set a few useful things. First of all it will allow us to set the gearbox up. As you can see from the image associated with this the process is the same as for the steering wheel and throttle; click on the item to assign and then select the gear you want on your shifter (assuming you have a shifter attached, which you should do with the G-Series wheel).

Once you have assigned 1st - 6th (and reverse!) then there are a couple of other useful things that can be assigned on this screen. These can be found under the “Miscellaneous” header on the right hand side. Lights and horn are all useful on drift servers as a lot of servers now run night events and the lights on your virtual car aren’t automatic, plus the horn is useful to give a little “toot” of apology after accidentally locking up a wheel and smashing the door or quarter in of the car you were chasing!

Lastly here; assign a button for your handbrake if you haven’t got a USB handbrake or joystick. It’s possible to use a shifter on the back of the wheel, although obviously these do move. Something that’s always in the same place and easily reachable is recommended. The older Logitech shifters have a button box on them that’s perfect for this use, failing that people have used spacebar on their keyboard. Find something that works for you.

The next header over is the “System” tab and, thankfully, there’s only one item here that really needs to be set up. That’s the “Teleport to Pits” button.

This is incredibly useful whilst learning to drift offline as it allows you to immediately port back to the pits and get a fresh car with fresh tyres after you’ve been practicing your donuts and figures of 8. It’s even more useful when online and you realise you’ve made a mistake in the lead of a 5 car train! Being able to teleport out of the way rather than take everyone in your immediate vicinity into a wall is a massive saving grace!

There are obviously a number of other items here that might become useful at another point, especially if you’re looking to also do some racing with your copy of Assetto Corsa. As we’re only focused on setting everything up for best performance drifting at the moment, however, you can comfortably ignore all of these.

Don’t worry, only a couple more tabs and settings to go before we’re ready to get out and start learning to skid on AC! Going through all these various pages now and ensuring everything is right will pay off long term as you shouldn’t have to change any of these again!

There’s nothing we need to adjust on the “Patch” tab so we’re going to skip across that straight to “Force Feedback”. This is where we’re going to have to bring in that .LUT file we generated earlier so make sure you remember where you put it and what it’s called! Start by setting the FFB as follows:

Gain - 100%, Invert FFB - Unticked, Filter - 0%
Minimum Force - 0.0%, Kerb Effects - 0%, Road Effects - 1%, Slip Effects - 4%, ABS Effects - 0%.
Enhanced Understeer - Unticked, Soft Lock - Unticked, Skip FFB Steps - 1
Centre Boost Gain - 0%, Centre Boost Range - 0%
Enable FFB Post Processing - BIG FAT TICK!!!!

This last one is the item that allows us to select our previously generated .LUT! The “Mode” drop-down will default to “Gamma” but change it to “LUT” and a window will appear, usually pre-populated with “Crazy1.LUT”. Click “Import LUT” and find the .LUT you generated earlier. That will then become the FFB reference LUT for AC. This will make the largest difference of all our settings so far, so make sure you do this!

Lastly on this page; “Unlock Experimental Options” should be unticked.

One final thing and you’re all set! In the top left of the settings page click on “Custom Shaders Patch” and the find “FFB Tweaks” in the long list on the left hand side of the page.

In the “Basic” section at the top of the page make sure that the “Active” box is ticked, as well as the “MacPherson Strut” tickbox below it. You may, or may not, have the “Disable FFB During Loading” tab depending on which version your Custom Shaders Patch is, as this gets updated regularly.

The most crucial here is the “More Physically Accurate Gyro Implementation”. That needs to be ticked on and the slider set to 25%.

If you have them leave “Range Compression” at 100% and leave “Output Real Steering Forces To Wheel” off. This is something that needs to be setup to personal preference so, if you turn it on you’ll need to have a play with the settings here to see just how much you need to turn up/down the slider. The lower the slider; the more aggressive the FFB. We recommend leaving it off for now!

That’s it. You should be all setup with your wheel running the best settings we’ve found over the years! Time to head to “Drive”, find yourself a car and track, and go skidding!

If you have any problems with the wheel, and re-tracing the steps in this guide doesn’t help, then obviously you can ask any follow up questions via our trusty Discord!

Happy skidding, and remember; Be More Duck!